Pressure Washing

The right pressure for the right surface

Pressure washing done wrong causes real damage — etched concrete, furred-up wood fences, water driven behind siding, blown-out mortar joints. The skill isn't in the machine; it's in matching pressure, tip, distance, and detergent to each surface. Concrete driveways can take high pressure and a surface cleaner for even results. Wood, painted siding, and brick get a gentler approach: lower pressure with the right cleaning solutions doing most of the work, so the surface comes clean without getting torn up.

For organic growth — the mildew and algae that thrive on shaded north-facing walls and fences in our humid climate — detergent dwell time matters more than raw pressure. We apply, let it work, then rinse. That kills the growth at the source instead of just blasting off the visible layer and watching it return in a month.

Washing as paint prep — and why it matters here

The North Texas sun chalks exterior paint: UV breaks down the binder and leaves a powdery film on the surface. Paint applied over chalk sticks to the chalk, not the wall, and fails early. That's why a proper wash is step one of every exterior repaint we do — it removes chalking, dirt, and mildew so primer and paint can actually bond. If you're getting your exterior painted, washing is part of the job, not an add-on.

As a standalone service, cost mostly comes down to square footage, how heavy the buildup is, and how many different surfaces are involved — a driveway is one thing, a driveway plus house wash plus fence line is another. Bundling washing with a painting or staining project is typically the most efficient way to have it done, since we're already mobilized at your home.

Frequently asked questions